Ford Mustang Mach E 2024

Hi, my name is Art with Green Tec Auto and today we’re going to be taking the lid off of a Mach E battery. So, this is a 98.8 8 kWh Ford Mustang Mache E battery. Now this is the longer range version of the same battery style and there are three different types of modules. All of them are four cells in parallel but the amount of cells in series changes and the polarity on the corners changes. So there are two modules that are labeled type C in the part number and those are 4 P7S configurations and there’s only two of them. Then we have module A and module B. Those are 4 P8s. And again, between the A and B, the only difference is the polarity is flipped or mirrored, so to say. So, this pack required a little bit of a more narrow front end, which a lot of different vehicles also have required, which will force them into that third module that’s a smaller module, but in turn, you get a little more dense. You still use the space up front to where you’re actually maximizing as much as you can of it. These have been used a lot in aftermarket and second life applications just because the vehicles are still so new and it’s because they are the configuration that they are. They take an 8s module and a 7S module and gives you 15s which is you know a high voltage 48vt pack that’s great for golf carts [music] and many applications like that. Most vehicles will be compatible with actually [music] two of the 8S modules giving you you know 16s. Sometimes the inverters can’t fully handle the uh full charge and that’s when you run into a problem with that. But rebuildability is one thing I wanted to talk about of this. It is quite unique. It is quite nice to be able to remove one section and replace it as faulted. Um you know wherever there’s a problem in here, whether it’s uh bad cells or degraded cells in the particular module, you’re not sacrificing a large portion of the pack like you are with the Model 3. So, this is actually quite nice to see because uh with the Chevy Bolt, you did have much longer strings and it was harder to [music] repair them. So, they did change it up a little bit with this and it actually makes it more convenient for companies like ourselves to be able to repair this in the future. So, I wanted to show you over here on the side. This is actually where the BMS makes the connections, the voltage and temperature uh taps. That’s the same on every single module except on the sections up front. It’s down the middle, but essentially these sections on top cuz they had to scoot them in a little bit. They’re on the outside which is makes it easy for us to show you. But just goes to show how easy it is to one either remove and replace this or two take this with a module and harness and use that in conjunction with the BMS in any other application. Super simple to reuse. Now the other thing I wanted to point out is the difference between this NMC pack and the standard range NMC pack. Um I mentioned earlier this is a 4P battery pack. Four [music] cells in parallel in every single module. Um, the standard range has only three cells in parallel. That reduces the capacity. And what they’re able to do is they’re actually make the entire pack flat. There is no hump on here. There’s no, this top section is completely missing. They sacrifice that extra space and weight to get you the lower battery pack. Not everybody needs it. And that’s how they’re able to get a little bit more range from this version. So, we’re getting ready to take out those three modules. Um, I will not be wearing high voltage gloves. I have been doing this for 13 years. Um, you should be. It is dangerous. We’re going to start by disconnecting the BMS. That’s always the first step we always do. If we do disconnect one module and the BMS is still active, it can cause damage to the BMS. So, if you’re ever doing any repairs, always, always, always BMS first, everything on the BMS, and then you can go ahead and start doing bus bars and other hardware. Uh, these covers are actually quite neat. I’ll show you here. Not only are they have a little locking on them, but when you open them, they stay open. And I guess maybe this one does. locks in. Most of the time those just come right back down and they’re in the way and you’re using two hands to get in where you’re going, but that makes it much easier. On this buzz bar, I can’t get to the other half without disassembling this whole section. So, I’m going to just tape it up. It is still a live terminal. It’s probably not going to cause any harm, but it’s always better safe than sorry with this kind of stuff, especially if I’m stepping away from it. Tape’s not expensive, so make it safe for somebody else if they’re touching it. Oh, this is my brother Paul been >> he’s been my helping hand today because these are not liked. So, here we have the 13 modules. Sorry, three modules. And we have to stack them this way because on the bottom we have a thermal interface. And if we lay that down on anything, that’s going to create a mess. Um, and obviously getting the modules out wasn’t easy either. Those things are definitely stuck down pretty well. We’re going to have to clean these modules completely, clean those cooling plates you saw earlier also completely, and apply new interface to get them back to spec. One thing I wanted to point out was going to be on this edge here. We saw earlier in the video the module harness went directly into the battery. On these modules, look, there is a sub harness. It actually makes it even easier to wire in a BMS because then you take this section from the battery harness and that’s where you wire your BMS and it actually makes it even easier to reuse. So, we have the three modules here now. And I didn’t see it earlier, but the one of the two I used the word mirrored earlier. The technical term they used was reversed. You can kind of see it on here. doesn’t really matter. Big point is positive and negative terminals flip on the modules. Everything else is the same. The module up front is the 7S and the terminals are diagonal of each other. Now, I got I got the other terminal down. This little cup here, the made it nice and easy to stand up, but just wanted to point out that this module is going to be a little bit wider than the others because the other terminal is sticking out on the other side. Now, I wanted you guys to take a look at the buzz bars. They are actually pretty nice. Um, they looks great. Looks like there’s a laser weld on there. Very difficult to try and modify. [music] I would not recommend trying to go in here and change the configuration. I know somebody out there has done it. I did talk to them about it once and they said it was probably the worst thing they could have done. Next, I’m going to give you guys some details about the modules themselves. Uh size and weight. For starters, these two modules are identical in size and weight. The A and the B are both 86.5 lb. They are 21.25 25 length, 14.5 in height, and all three modules are 5 in tall. Now, these are a little bit on the higher side of the measurements. Like, it’s maybe an eighth smaller. I’ve rounded up just because if I tell you the module’s bigger and it still fits, when you receive it, you should be fine. Last module, the C module. Again, the height is still 5 in. The length is now 19 in, and the width is 15 1/2 in. So, it does gain an extra inch and maybe depending on the space you’re putting it into, you can kind of twist it diagonally and make it work. Again, same thing with the harness. These three modules have that harness on the side. However, there will be two [music] modules that have a different style harness. Depending on who and where you guys get these from, if they’re from us or if they’re from somebody else, that could change. Other than that, that’s most of the information that we really wanted to provide on this. Cell replacement on this is probably not going to ever happen in terms of repair, but [music] module replacement certainly will. If we had to repair something like this, we would cycle test the whole thing module by module um to figure figure out exactly what the condition of the remaining pack is. Not always just finding the bad ones, but cycle testing the rest to figure out what’s bad. And this makes it easy. We had an F-150 video that we did a couple months ago and one of the questions was about these coolant tubes and this one here is also broken and we mentioned how it was repairable and people asked how rather replaceable. You can see that one. There’s quick connects to disconnect it. And [music] you have four bolts. That whole plastic mold comes out. So, that is something that is easily fixable. The lid is not glued down. It is a gasket. So, you can take the lid off. You want to try to blow out as much coolant as you can before you get in there or clamp off those lines cuz you don’t want cool leaking inside. But to answer your question, uh, yes, definitely replaceable. Not like the Model 3 or Y where they say you have to replace the whole pack and you have to figure out how to fix it easier or have to fix it yourself. So much easier to fix. So, we have the battery back together. I will label these three as the um thermal adhesive is compromised and would need to be replaced if we try to put this back into a vehicle. Quick technique that I’ve we always use, like I mentioned, I’ve been doing it for a long time. Didn’t get electrocuted. I don’t know if you noticed, but [music] I always had one hand on the battery terminals when I was doing it. The other hand wasn’t touching the the other side or anything like that. And lastly, we’re going to go ahead and plug in the BMS. And that’s it for today. We’re going to close this back up and put it on the shelf for whenever you guys are ready for it. Thank you for watching.